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We slept well last night and started a little later this morning, so we’re feeling good! After breakfast, we did a bus tour around Krakow, including the Krakow Ghetto. We also saw the famous “Eagle Pharmacy.” When the Nazis chose the area for the ghetto, there was a family-owned pharmacy within the boundary. The family was asked to relocate, but they wanted to stay. They were Catholic and wanted to help the Jews in any way they could. They convinced the Nazis it would be a good idea and paid off them as well. The pharmacy became the location for educated Jews to gather for philosophical discussions. It was a safe place where these (mostly) men could escape the horrors around them and engage with others in the civilized manner they were used to. It also gave the family access to the ghetto, where they witnessed and documented the atrocities. After the war, the father wrote a book describing everything inside the walls.

During World War II, ration cards were issued so that citizens could acquire food. The quantity of food allowed was based on daily calorie counts. The Germans were allowed 2,000, the Polish people 700 and the Jews were only given 400 calories. There are bronze chairs located throughout the ghetto. Each chair represents 1,000 Krakow Jews who lost their lives. There were over 100 synagogues in Krakow before World War II. Today, there are only seven.

We toured the exterior of Wawel Castle (right next to our hotel) and learned about the area’s history. In the middle of the city square is St. Mary’s Basilica. Each day, at noon, the top altarpiece, “The Altar of the Dormition of the Mother of God,” is opened. There are 120 Roman Catholic churches in Krakow today.

After a lunch of traditional Polish food (and getting pooped on by a colossal pigeon), we walked back to the hotel with our new British friends, Stuart and Debbie.

We rested in the room for a few hours (Leroy got in a swim) and then attended Mass at St. Mary’s. The organ was magnificent, and the cantor was extraordinary.

We met Curtis and Linda at an Italian restaurant for a delicious meal and then walked along the Vistula River on our way back to the hotel.

Someone just asked Leroy if I was in my element, and the answer is an enthusiastic yes. If you’re wondering if I’ve corrected the tour guides, the answer is another yes. But it’s only happened twice so far. (But it’s only Day 4!)

I would need more than one or two blog posts to describe our adventures today. Forgive me for being so brief. We are exhausted and need to get some sleep. (I will probably do some follow-up blog posts about these two locations with more details and descriptions.)

Today was our transfer day from Warsaw to Krakow (by bus.) About halfway between these big cities is the Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa. This sacred shrine is the icon’s location, depicting the Mother of God with the Christ Child, known as the Black Madonna of Częstochowa or Our Lady of Częstochowa. It is the most significant Catholic pilgrimage site in all of Poland. The priest, Fr. Roman, said, “Warsaw is the political capital, Krakow is the cultural capital, and Częstochowa is the spiritual capital.” The icon is veiled and unveiled on a regular, daily schedule to mimic the hours a reigning queen would be available for an audience.

For those who sent prayer requests, I hope you felt them today.

After arriving in Krakow, we immediately sought tickets to Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory. These are difficult to get, but we snagged tickets and headed over. The building is original, but the interior was converted into three museum floors. There are images, artifacts and stories of not only the Schindler’s List Jews but also Polish life, Nazi occupation, the concentration camps and World War II in general. I recently re-watched the movie, and I’m so glad I did. I did learn one thing. Schindler not only employed the Jewish workers from the Krakow Ghetto, he also employed many Polish citizens and kept them housed and fed in difficult economic times. I love learning new things.

I completely forgot to tell you about one of the best parts of yesterday. While we were at the Jewish Museum, I bought my first Mezuzah. (Deuteronomy 6:4-9 and Numbers 12: 37-41) For my Catholic friends, listen to Fr. Mike’s Bible In A Year, Day 57. This acquisition was one of my primary goals for this trip. It’s so cool!

It was a beautiful day in Warsaw. We started with breakfast at the hotel, where we met Curtis and Linda. We then boarded a bus for a guided tour of Warsaw, including many of the government, historical and political sites, the Jewish Quarter, and the Warsaw Ghetto area. This city was virtually leveled in World War II, but not by aerial bombing. Most of the damage was done in direct combat against the Soviets and the Germans. After the war, Warsaw was under Communist rule, and the buildings were replaced in the Russian style, including the Communist block housing. Once they were able to re-establish a democracy (1989), the Poles rebuilt the city to match the buildings that were destroyed. (Even replacing the original streets.) All the buildings are relatively new but match what they would have looked like before the war. Warsaw is still recovering from the wounds of communism. In defiance, they have renamed the street in front of the Russian Embassy “Aleją Ofiar Rosyjskiej Agresji,” which means “Victims of Russian Aggression Avenue.”

It’s no surprise St. Pope John Paul II is a big deal in Poland. There are statues, monuments and memorials everywhere. The guide explained what he meant to the Polish people. It was his visit to Warsaw in 1979 that inspired the Polish people to reclaim their heritage, their cities, their country and their faith. It would take another ten years before the fall of Communism in this region. The exact location (in Victory Square) of St. John Paul II’s homily is marked by a large white cross and is directly across the street from our hotel.

The Jewish Quarter and Ghetto area contain many monuments not only to the Jewish uprisings and victims but also to give a glimpse of what the Jewish community was like before the German occupation. In 1940, there were 300,000 Jews locked in the Warsaw Ghetto. They were sustained by only an average of 170 calories per day. There are less than 1,000 Jews left in Warsaw today. More than 30% of the Polish Jews died in the Ghettos during World War II. Just like the rest of the city, there are few buildings or markers that remain. But the ones that do have significant meaning, including the execution wall, which is riddled with bullet holes. While we were at the Jewish Museum, I bought my first Mezuzah. (Deuteronomy 6:4-9 and Numbers 12: 37-41) For my Catholic friends, listen to Fr. Mike’s Bible In A Year, Day 57. This acquisition was one of my primary goals for this trip. It’s so cool!

We ate lunch (including pierogi) in the bustling city center of Old Town. Many people were out today (Saturday), but they closed the streets to vehicle traffic, so getting around is still manageable. Walking back to the hotel, we saw a church with an Epiphany blessing (like our house) and the guard changing at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Leroy and I attended Mass at Holy Cross Church on Saturday night, our usual Mass time. We realized (during Mass) that it was not the Sunday readings. We were at the last daily Mass. Afterward, we walked down the street to the other church where Mass was beginning, but it too was daily Mass. So, we’ll get up early tomorrow morning and go to 6:00 am Mass before boarding the bus at 7:45 am to head to Krakow. (Prayers today and more to come tomorrow.)

There are so many things I could tell you, but I would spend all night writing (and I need some sleep.). So, I’ve decided to list just some of my observations.

1. The Polish people we’ve encountered are rather shy. The wait staff and hotel employees are efficient, accommodating, and polite, but they are almost embarrassed if you compliment or give them much attention. (Like asking questions, which I always Ike to do when I travel.) When the waitress today asked me if I wanted the pierogi boiled or fried, I asked her what her preference and she almost fainted.
2. The Polish people do not walk around with cell phones in their faces like we see at home. I can’t remember seeing anyone on the streets using a cell phone—even teenagers. We’ve seen many groups of 20-somethings gathering in groups of 6-10 (male and female), and no one is on their phone. They talk to each other (and listen) like we did in the old days.

It’s been fun checking in with the kids each day. Jameson keeps his globe nearby and always knows what time it is in Poland.

As we approached Frankfurt Airport, I was struck by the beauty of the land beneath. There were acres and acres of lush, hilly farmland surrounded by clumps of forest. There were railroad tracks throughout, and I couldn’t help but think of the millions of prisoners who were transported to their deaths on some of those same lines. As we approached the city, the landscape changed dramatically. My eyes were drawn to the Stalinist Architecture of the Soviet-era apartment blocks. (Known in Poland and The Czech Republic as “Rabbit Boxes.”) This was not like home.

Our flights were long but uneventful. The good news is that our luggage made it, too. (I really enjoyed tracking it with AirTags.) We flew from San Francisco to Frankfurt, switched planes and arrived in Warsaw about 2:30 p.m. I wasn’t too impressed with the German people at the Frankfurt Airport, but the Polish are friendly so far.

We were exhausted but did a little sightseeing after checking in. We are staying in the heart of Warsaw, just a few blocks from the Old Town.

We have only been here for five hours, and I’ve already prayed for you in three different churches. (All of them are within walking distance of our hotel.)

Our first stop was Holy Cross Church. This was the biggest of the churches. The Polish composer Frédéric Chopin’s heart is buried in one of the interior columns.

Our second stop was at The Church of St. Joseph of the Visitationists and, finally, The Church of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary and St. Joseph, also known as The Carmelite Church. (Mass was happening at The Carmelite Church, so I didn’t take any interior shots, but we’ll return.) Each one was magnificent, but the most impressive thing was that they were all blocks away from each other.

Note: I’ve used the English versions of the names here because I can neither spell nor pronounce them in Polish.

After prayers, we walked to the edge of the original portion of Warsaw and found the monument for the border of the Warsaw Ghetto. We will see more of it tomorrow, but being in that area was remarkable.

Curtis and Linda (my brother and sister-in-law) have arrived in Warsaw (via Dallas and London) and are currently en route to the hotel. We are going to eat a meal and head to bed.

You guys! We made it to the airport. The reality of this dream is beginning to hit me. Most of it seems surreal, including how well-organized we are with our luggage. I don’t think I have ever been this efficient. We checked two medium-sized bags and are carrying two pack packs (one each) and one suitcase for overhead.

I received a set of AirTags for Christmas, and this is the first time I’ve used them. Watching our luggage transfer from the ticket counter to the gates has been fun. Right now, they are sitting at Gate G6 (which was our original departure gate.) They’ve switched us to G13, but our luggage hasn’t moved. I’m confident they will figure it out before the plane leaves. Well, I’m reasonably confident.

We arrived at the airport super early. (No surprise.) And so we had plenty of time to pursue every bookstore between security and our gate. Leroy was patient and let me take my time. (Traveling authors often stop at these stores to sign their books while waiting for their flights.) I didn’t find ANY signed books. It was disappointing. Seeing so many of our Book Club selections on the shelves was fun. (I also got a few ideas for upcoming months.)

We will fly from San Francisco to Frankfurt, Germany, switch planes and go from Frankfurt to Warsaw, Poland. The seating selection shows no one is assigned to the seat next to us. Say a little prayer that it remains empty.

As I write this, a young girl is near speaking on the telephone in GERMAN! Every minute, this trip gets better and better. She’s wearing a “Carmel California” sweatshirt, so I’m going to assume she is going home.

I will try to sleep as much as possible on this flight, as we will arrive in Poland mid-day and hit the ground running. (On the way home, I will try to stay awake so I can sleep when we get home.

While traveling in Poland, The Czech Republic, and Germany, we will visit some of the world’s most beautiful churches and religious sites. We hope to attend Mass as much as possible, but at the very least, we will pray at every stop. We are happy to take your prayer intentions along with us and light candles for you and your prayer requests.

For those unfamiliar with this practice, it is a form of intercessory prayer. We’ve all asked others to pray for us on one occasion or another, and this is no different. Each day, we will pray at the holy sites we visit. We will carry the prayer requests with us and ask God for assistance with your specific requests.

We will also light candles whenever possible. This, too, is an old Catholic tradition. The candle’s light represents our prayer and will continue long after we have departed. A few years ago, I had some family and friends traveling through Europe, and I asked them to light candles for me when they visited churches or cathedrals (after explaining the significance of the candles). They did, even though it was not a part of their faith tradition, and I am forever thankful for the gift of grace. Each time they found a church, they lit a candle and sent me a video or photograph. I cannot tell you what it meant to me, and I hope to offer the same opportunity to others.

So, if you’d like us to pray for you while we’re gone, you can send your requests to me via private message on social media. If you receive this post via email, you can reply, and it will be sent directly to me. If you have my telephone number, you can call or text me. Otherwise, you can fill out the form below, and I will receive your intention directly.

As always, please keep us in your prayers too!

People have been making pilgrimages (a journey to a sacred place) for a long time. In the Old Testament, we read about the Israelites making their pilgrimages (primarily to Jerusalem) at least three times a year. The early Christians traveled to the sites of Jesus’ birth, death and resurrection for their pilgrimages, and that practice continues today.

For as long as I can remember, I have been called to visit Poland and Germany and to stand on the sacred ground where those who suffered and died in World War II and the Shoah (Holocaust) stood. My mother instilled this passion in me, and we often talked about our dream of making this trip. Mom never made it to Poland or Germany but visited Anne Frank’s hiding place in Amsterdam. While there, she purchased a copy of the famous book at the gift shop and brought it back to me. It is one of my most treasured possessions.

My best friend recently asked me about my expectations for this journey, and I had no words to describe what I felt—just emotions, which are difficult to define. The closest way to express it is extreme gratitude. The significance of this opportunity is not lost on me. I am overwhelmingly grateful for the chance to fulfill this lifelong dream. I am trying to have no expectations and to be fully present in the experience. I know it will be emotionally draining but so worthwhile.

In the spirit of gratitude, I would be remiss if I didn’t thank Leroy. He’s the one making this trip possible. I don’t know many people who would volunteer to visit concentration camps or the sites of former Jewish ghettos (other than me.) But Leroy knows what this means to me, and he’s been all in since I asked to go. Pilgrimages always include an element of sacrifice, and Leroy has willingly agreed to make this meaningful journey by my side. We are scheduled to be at Auschwitz on his fifty-seventh birthday. Please keep us in your prayers as we prepare for this journey.

We have some exciting plans coming up soon. Leroy and I are going on a pilgrimage (a journey to a sacred place) to Poland, Prague and Germany. We’ve been working on this trip for over a year, and our departure date is approaching.

We originally planned a trip to Poland with a Catholic tour company. We signed up and paid the fees, only to be canceled a month later. I was disappointed. The itinerary for the trip was well-planned, and we were looking forward to the experience. We got all our money back and still had the time blocked, so I went online to look for another tour. I couldn’t find one, so we created our own. And I have to say, I think my itinerary is even better than the original.

If you know me at all, you know how fascinated I am with World War II history and Nazi Germany. It has been an (almost) obsession for most of my life. I inherited it from my mother. She, too, loved reading about that particular period. Since I was now in charge of our destinations, I added a few stops along the way.

We will visit religious sites associated with modern saints, St. John Paul II, St. Faustina and St. Maximillian Kolbe. We will also have a chance to see The Black Madonna in Czestochowa, Poland and various churches and cathedrals along the way.

The historical World War II sites we will visit are equally important to me. It has been a lifelong dream of mine to see (mainly) Poland and Germany. We will walk through the location of the ghettos in both Warsaw and Krakow. We will visit Oskar Shindler’s enamel factory and (the highlight for me) the concentration camp, Auschwitz.

We will not be traveling alone. My brother Curtis and his wife Linda will join us for the journey, beginning in Poland. Leroy’s sister Anne and her husband John will join us in Prague and travel through Germany.

I will be sharing our stories on a travel blog. I am hoping to be posting daily while we are away. I will be taking photographs and journaling along the way. I will share images and write about our adventure each day. You can check my website for updates if you’d like to follow along.